I was now in the heart of the Lake District National Park. I could have left the car in the middle of the road. Eventually I abandoned the car altogether in a layby and walked about half a mile between the bottom of Loweswater and Crummock Water, a neighbouring lake, through the most sumptuous valley, beneath towering hills, all bathed in sunshine. The road was so narrow that I needed constant vigilance to avoid scraping along a drystone wall, so I kept pulling over and jumping out, just to see the views. Apart from a couple of farmhouses it felt as if no one had been here for years. The Lake District, when it is fine, and it usually is at least that, is surely the most beautiful place on earth – and this was as fine a corner as I had ever come across. The road was narrow and slow but breathtakingly gorgeous. I thought I knew the Lake District pretty well, but here was a lake that I had never heard of, as far as I could recall, so I made a sharp turn and went to investigate. I was bound for Keswick by way of Cockermouth when I came to a sign pointing down a side road to Loweswater.
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